Reticulated Python Feeding and Diet

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Topics: Growth and Care

The natural diet of the reticulated python includes warm-blooded prey; mostly mammals and occasionally birds. Small pythons (up to 10-12 feet long) eat mainly small rodents like rats. Larger pythons eat prey such as Viverridae (e.g. civets and binturongs) and sometimes primates and pigs.

Reticulated pythons are also found in cities like Bangkok and Singapore—there they are known to snatch stray chickens, domesticated cats and dogs. A particularly bizarre incident was reported when a 23 foot (6.95m) python ate a half-starved female Sun Bear (a sub-type of reticulated python) that weighed 23 kilograms. It took about 10 full weeks to digest!

Remarkable enough, the reticulated python can swallow prey up to a quarter of its own length and up to its own weight. All pythons are ambush hunters, meaning that they wait until the prey wanders within striking range before killing it. A pretty lazy (but effective) way to hunt if you ask me. Prey is located by heat-sensitive pits in labial scales that line the snake’s lips. This helps them hunt for food even in the dark or in dense foliage.

Feeding Schedule

A smaller reticulated python should be fed every 3 to 4 days with appropriately sized rats and mice. Adults require guinea pigs, rabbits or even pigs around every 10 days.

The reticulated python, like all other reptiles, has an extremely low metabolic rate. This means that it can go without food for long periods of time. An example of this—in 1926, a captive specimen at Regent’s Park refused to eat for an entire 23 months. One day, it decided to accept a meal and from then on maintained a normal eating schedule. Very strange.

Eating Humans?

In urban areas like Bangkok and Singapore, the reticulated python preys mostly on rats, cats and stray chickens. Interestingly enough, one time a Python Sebae (rock python) was found to have a small leopard in its stomach.

There are in fact, well-documented cases of large adults killing and eating people, but these are extremely rare.

More Information

The following quote comes from a site I found on Angelfire:

A baby retic should begin feeding on weanling mice(21 days old) or rat crawlers. A snake may be induced to feed by placing it in a locking plastic shoe box style container(with air holes) with crumpled newspaper and leaving it for an hour, then introducing a food item. At 3′, the snake is large enough for weanling rats. At 5′, it is capable of consuming adult rats. Frequent feedings of 1 – 2 times weekly will result in quick growth and a healthy animal. It may be wise to consider how large you wish the snake to get, feed less often to slow the growth rate. Feed at least once every 10 days, when the snake begins feeding on large meals such as rabbits feeding can occur less frequently. Many animals may be conditioned to accept pre-killed or thawed warmed rodents at feed time. This technique is safer, than feeding live rodents since this prevents the snake from being bitten by a rodent. Shedding is dependent on the animal’s growth rate and condition and may occur every 3-6 weeks. African rock pythons may refuse feeding attempts while shedding. Avoid handling after a sizable meal; it is stressful and may cause regurgitation. Never leave a rodent in the snake’s cage for lengthy periods; a rodent can cause serious damage to your pet!!!! Provide food and water for any rodent left in the snake’s cage longer than 30 minutes. Never handle rodents and then handle a snake; you may be mistaken as food. Develop proper feeding habits. As the snake grows to lengths exceeding 6′ it may be wise to feed the snake only dead rodents and move it to a feeding container prior to food offering. If moved to a feeding container for all feedings it may become conditioned not to expect food while in its cage. This may reduce the possibility of being mistaken as a food item by an over excited feeder. Best method is to place dead rodent in container and let snake discover it, encourages gentle food acquisition. Maintain feeding and health records. Reluctant Feeders– May be more apt to eat at night or with lights off, and may prefer to ambush prey from a hide box. Try a variety of rodents and sizes. Is the animal sick? Reduce handling to a minimum. If an animal refuses all feeding attempts and appears to be wasting, consult a veterinarian or experienced herper.

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